mercoledì 26 ottobre 2016

DOMO BLANCO

Ecco cosa accade sulla nostra spiaggia...

mercoledì 12 ottobre 2016

HASTA LUEGO!


Partenza per il mondo degli gnomi, ciao e tutte/i...

martedì 11 ottobre 2016

UOMO... ESSERE IMMONDO




Ogni giorno nel mondo 37.000 bambine sono obbligate a sposare uomini molto più grandi di loro. Costrette a violenze da parte dei loro uomini, alla perdita della loro libertà e del diritto all’educazione. La loro infanzia o adolescenza viene interrotta troppo presto. Il matrimonio precoce e forzato è una violazione dei diritti umani. È illegale secondo il diritto internazionale ed è vietato in molti dei paesi in cui è presente, ma le leggi spesso non vengono applicate.

sabato 8 ottobre 2016

CIAO VALERIA


So che ti piacevano molto gli orti della Regina. Si capisce dal tuo dipinto! Ciao Piccola!

giovedì 6 ottobre 2016

SERATA 7 OTTOBRE 2016


MIKE KOSTERLITZ


A Mike Kosterlitz è stato assegnato il premio Nobel per la fisica. Lo scozzese, oltre che per suo genio applicato alla scienza, ha brillato anche come arrampicatore e alpinista lasciando segni indimenticabili soprattutto in Valle dell'Orco, come la celeberrima Fessura Kosterlitz che porta il suo nome. 

mercoledì 5 ottobre 2016

COLIN HALEY IERI SERA A LECCO




COLIN HALEY a Lecco ieri sera

Ad accogliere sul palco lo straordinario arrampicatore, non c’era solo il presidente del gruppo alpinisti Gamma Giovanni Spada, ma anche due importanti volti dell’alpinismo italiano: “Mariolino” Conti ed Ermanno Salvaterra, che ben conoscono la passione di cui Coley questa sera ci ha parlato, la Patagonia.
Già perché il 32enne di Seattle tramite le sue parole e le sue fotografie non ha raccontato soltanto alcune delle grandi imprese che lo hanno portato ai vertici dell’alpinismo, ma ha raccontato la sua crescita e la sua evoluzione come sportivo e come persona, a cui la montagna, anzi una montagna in particolare, ha insegnato cosa voleva davvero nella vita.

giovedì 22 settembre 2016

IL "MOSTRO AUSTRIACO" MARKUS PUCHER
















CERRO POLLONE - Primera solitaria, primera invernal / First solo ascent, first winter ascent.
[english further down]

Este último fin de semana Markus Pucher hizo la primera ascensión solitaria y la primera invernal del Cerro Pollone. Escaló la cara sur, siguiendo una línea similar a la de la primera ascensión. Originalmente había querido intentar otra vez la Supercanaleta, pero su rodilla, que dislocó hace apenas cuatro meses, sugirió un cambio de planes.
La cara sur del Cerro Pollone escala hielo fácil, navegando alrededor de varios seracs y grietas, pero los últimos 30 metros son bastante difíciles. En 2011, Colin Haley llegó hasta un punto a dos metros de la cumbre, donde roca compacta cubierta por escarcha lo hizo dar media vuelta. En 2013, Martin Castrillo y Hervé Barmasse escalaron en invierno hasta un punto similar al alcanzado por Colin. Markus describe los últimos metros como particularmente difíciles y peligrosos. En un punto, tuvo que tirar su piqueta con un chicote de cuerda para pasar un escalón. Partió de Piedra Negra a las 5AM y alcanzó la cumbre a las 11:30AM. Describe esta ascensión como un final perfecto a su estadía y promete volver para intentar tanto el Cerro Fitz Roy como el Cerro Torre en invierno.

Over the past weekend Markus Pucher did the first solo and the first winter ascent of Cerro Pollone. He climbed the south face, following a line somewhat similar to that of the first ascent. He had hoped to have another go at the Supercanaleta, but a sore knee that he dislocated four months ago, suggested a change of objectives.
Most of Cerro Pollone's south face is a mix of low-angle ice climbing and navigation around crevasses and bergschrunds, but the last 30 meter summit tower is quite difficult. In 2011, Colin Haley reached a point around two meters below the summit, but rime over blank rock made him turn around. In 2013, Martin Castrillo and Hervé Barmasse climbed to the same high point as Haley. Markus describes the last five meters as being particularly hard and scary, with the potential for a big fall. At one point he had to toss his ice-axe tied to a loop to overcome a blank step. He started from Piedra Negra at 5AM and reached the summit at 11:30AM. He describes this as a perfect end to his trip and promises to come back in full fitness to try both Cerro Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre in the winter.
Visualizza traduzione

lunedì 19 settembre 2016

CHE MONDO INCREDIBILE





TORRE EGGER – SOLO INVERNAL / WINTER SOLO ASCENT

Lo que sigue es el relato de la solitaria invernal que hiciera Marc-Andre Leclerc de laTorre Egger. El jueves fue hasta Niponino y el viernes movió su carpa hasta el pie de la vía, dedicándose a secar el equipo y descansar. Comenzó escalando por una variante de 300 metros a la derecha de la linea Italiana, siguiendo luego la linea “invernal” para juntarse a Titanic a mitad altura.
“El sábado empece a escalar a las 2:45AM, optando subir por un corredor justo abajo del serac. Progrese rápidamente por nieve dura y hielo fácil con una sección mixta en una chimenea estrecha justo antes de llegar a la linea Italiana. Esta es la primera y única vez en mi vida que he escalado bajo un serac.
Justo antes de llegar al glaciar colgante me asegure en un largo (M5 A1). Por encima del glaciar colgante me asegure en un largo corto, una columna de hielo frágil en la cual hice artificial de un tornillo para evitar que se caiga. Continue por terreno fácil hasta una sección difícil justo antes de la arista de nieve, en el cual me asegure.
En el headwall escale mayormente sin cuerda, excepto la travesía justo antes de la rampa. En esta sección recupere mi mochila, lo cual me hizo perder algo de tiempo porque se engancho varias veces. La escalada en el headwall es muy buena, con varias fisuras de dedos y una chimenea llena de hielo que hice en zapatillas de escalada pero usando un piolet. Donde comienza la travesía a la derecha me volví a colocar las botas y los grampones, y escale con la mochila puesta. Escalando sin cuerda, pase el punto que había alcanzado en mi intento anterior.
La chimenea que sigue estaba en buena condición, con buen hielo, y arriba escalé una sección en zapatillas justo antes de las pendientes de nieve que llevan a los hongos cumbreros. Aquí encontré un escalón de roca cubierto de escarcha en el cual me asegure, haciendo artificial con mis piolets plantados en hielo en el fondo en una fisura ancha desplomada. Esta sección aunque corta, me resultó bastante seria. Para alcanzar el “tubo” de hielo que lleva a la cara sur, baje en travesía con la cuerda y hice otro par de pasos de artificial.
Alcance la cumbre a las 6pm, pero no me quede mucho tiempo porque había mucho viento. Desescalé el ultimo largo y luego rapelé una línea más directa para evitar tener que repetir las secciones en travesía. Uno de los rapeles se me engancho, pero el resto del descenso fue bien y alcance el glaciar a las 11pm.”
La suya es la segunda ascensión invernal de la Torre Egger (Dani Arnold, Thomas Senf y Stefan Siegrist hicieron la primera en 2010), es la primera solitaria invernal, y es la segunda solitaria jamás (la primera la hizo Colin Haley en inicio de 2016). Con esta ascensión Marc-André termina su proyecto de escalar en solo las tres cumbres principales del grupo del Cerro Torre. En principio de 2015 hizo una ascensión rapidísima del “Sacacorcho” en el Cerro Torre, de lejos la vía más dura escalada en solo en esa montaña. Hace un año hizo en free-solo Tomahawk a Exocet en la Aguja Standhardt, una línea muy sostenida. Eligió a propósito lineas que no habían sido escaladas en solo. Cierra su relato diciendo “que felicidad tener algunos días de descanso,” un descanso más que merecido sin duda.
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Below is Marc-André Leclerc's account of his solo winter ascent of Torre Egger. On Thursday he walked up the Torre Valley and camped at Niponino, then on Friday he had a casual day moving camp to the glacier below the route, drying the stashed gear and relaxing. He started up by climbing 300 meters of new terrain right of the Italian line, then followed the “Winter link-up” line to join Titanic at half height.
“Saturday I began climbing around 2:45AM. I opted to climb the Scottish style gully threatened by the serac. Icefall had swept this clean and progress was fast on neve and water ice consistent in the WI3 range with a good mixed section in a narrow chimney before joining the established route. This is the first and only time I have ever climbed below a serac.
I belayed a long mixed pitch (M5 A1) to gain easier terrain and the hanging glacier where I took a short break. Above this, I belayed a 15m pitch on a very fragile column of ice that require me to aid off of an ice screw to avoid knocking it down. I continued easily above this to reach along pitch of 5.10+ which I belayed with frozen hands to reach the snow arête and base of the headwall.
On the headwall, I free soloed the majority of the climbing aside from the traversing section that joins the ramps. I hauled my pack, but it got caught a few times which cost me time. The climbing on the headwall was very good with many exposed finger cracks and a chimney flare with ice in the back that I climbed in rock shoes with one ice tool.
Where the line begins to traverse right, I changed back into boots and crampons and climbed with my pack on, free soloing this wildly exposed section quite rapidly and passing my high point from my first attempt.
The chimney pitch above was in decent conditions, with solid ice, and above this an excellent stemming groove (climbed in rock shoes) gained the start of the upper snow and mushrooms section.
There was a heavily rimed rock step that I back looped, and I resorted to aiding off my tools placed in ice in the back of an overhanging off width. This felt quite serious although short lived. Above this I made a tension traverse and two aid moves to gain the 'ice tube' that leads to the south side of the mushroom and the summit which I reached at 6pm.
There was a lot of wind on the summit and I did not linger for long. I downclimbed the last pitch then rappelled straight down and directly off the edge of the headwall from v-threads which allowed me to avoid the traversing section of the route itself. One stuck rappel cost me time, but after that things went smoothly and I arrived at my tent at 11pm.”
Marc-André's is the second winter ascent of Torre Egger (the first was done by Dani Arnold, Thomas Senf and Stefan Siegrist in 2010), the first solo ascent in winter and only the second solo ascent ever (the first was done by Colin Haley in early 2016). With this ascent Marc-André finishes his project of soloing the three main summits in the Cerro Torre group. In early 2015, he did a very fast solo of the Corkscrew link-up on Cerro Torre, by far the hardest route ever soloed on that peak. A year ago he free-soloed the very sustained link-up of Tomahawk to Exocet on Aguja Standhardt, barely one day after the winter equinox, narrowly missing the “winter ascent.” He specifically choose routes that had not yet been soloed, explaining that this helped keep him motivated and excited as he planned things. He closes his account by writing “I am quite psyched and ready to take it easy for a few days!” That is a very well deserved rest.