CERRO POLLONE - Primera solitaria, primera invernal / First solo ascent, first winter ascent.
[english further down]
Este último fin de semana Markus Pucher hizo la primera ascensión solitaria y la primera invernal del Cerro Pollone. Escaló la cara sur, siguiendo una línea similar a la de la primera ascensión. Originalmente había querido intentar otra vez la Supercanaleta, pero su rodilla, que dislocó hace apenas cuatro meses, sugirió un cambio de planes.
La cara sur del Cerro Pollone escala hielo fácil, navegando alrededor de varios seracs y grietas, pero los últimos 30 metros son bastante difíciles. En 2011, Colin Haley llegó hasta un punto a dos metros de la cumbre, donde roca compacta cubierta por escarcha lo hizo dar media vuelta. En 2013, Martin Castrillo y Hervé Barmasse escalaron en invierno hasta un punto similar al alcanzado por Colin. Markus describe los últimos metros como particularmente difíciles y peligrosos. En un punto, tuvo que tirar su piqueta con un chicote de cuerda para pasar un escalón. Partió de Piedra Negra a las 5AM y alcanzó la cumbre a las 11:30AM. Describe esta ascensión como un final perfecto a su estadía y promete volver para intentar tanto el Cerro Fitz Roy como el Cerro Torre en invierno.
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Over the past weekend Markus Pucher did the first solo and the first winter ascent of Cerro Pollone. He climbed the south face, following a line somewhat similar to that of the first ascent. He had hoped to have another go at the Supercanaleta, but a sore knee that he dislocated four months ago, suggested a change of objectives.
Most of Cerro Pollone's south face is a mix of low-angle ice climbing and navigation around crevasses and bergschrunds, but the last 30 meter summit tower is quite difficult. In 2011, Colin Haley reached a point around two meters below the summit, but rime over blank rock made him turn around. In 2013, Martin Castrillo and Hervé Barmasse climbed to the same high point as Haley. Markus describes the last five meters as being particularly hard and scary, with the potential for a big fall. At one point he had to toss his ice-axe tied to a loop to overcome a blank step. He started from Piedra Negra at 5AM and reached the summit at 11:30AM. He describes this as a perfect end to his trip and promises to come back in full fitness to try both Cerro Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre in the winter.
La cara sur del Cerro Pollone escala hielo fácil, navegando alrededor de varios seracs y grietas, pero los últimos 30 metros son bastante difíciles. En 2011, Colin Haley llegó hasta un punto a dos metros de la cumbre, donde roca compacta cubierta por escarcha lo hizo dar media vuelta. En 2013, Martin Castrillo y Hervé Barmasse escalaron en invierno hasta un punto similar al alcanzado por Colin. Markus describe los últimos metros como particularmente difíciles y peligrosos. En un punto, tuvo que tirar su piqueta con un chicote de cuerda para pasar un escalón. Partió de Piedra Negra a las 5AM y alcanzó la cumbre a las 11:30AM. Describe esta ascensión como un final perfecto a su estadía y promete volver para intentar tanto el Cerro Fitz Roy como el Cerro Torre en invierno.
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Over the past weekend Markus Pucher did the first solo and the first winter ascent of Cerro Pollone. He climbed the south face, following a line somewhat similar to that of the first ascent. He had hoped to have another go at the Supercanaleta, but a sore knee that he dislocated four months ago, suggested a change of objectives.
Most of Cerro Pollone's south face is a mix of low-angle ice climbing and navigation around crevasses and bergschrunds, but the last 30 meter summit tower is quite difficult. In 2011, Colin Haley reached a point around two meters below the summit, but rime over blank rock made him turn around. In 2013, Martin Castrillo and Hervé Barmasse climbed to the same high point as Haley. Markus describes the last five meters as being particularly hard and scary, with the potential for a big fall. At one point he had to toss his ice-axe tied to a loop to overcome a blank step. He started from Piedra Negra at 5AM and reached the summit at 11:30AM. He describes this as a perfect end to his trip and promises to come back in full fitness to try both Cerro Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre in the winter.
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